There is no single Italian cuisine — there are twenty, one for each region. In the north expect creamy risotto, polenta and butter; in the centre, hand-rolled pasta and grilled meats; in the south, tomatoes, olive oil, seafood and the original pizza.
Order what is local: carbonara in Rome, ragù in Bologna, pesto in Genoa, arancini in Sicily. Follow the seasons and the crowds of locals rather than the tourist menus.
And remember the rituals — a quick espresso after lunch, never a cappuccino; an aperitivo before dinner; and gelato whenever the mood strikes.