The Dolomites were recognised as a World Heritage site in 2009 for their geology: walls of carbonate rock that turn pink at sunset, an effect known locally as enrosadira. They span Trentino, South Tyrol and the Veneto.
The main places
The Tre Cime di Lavaredo are the emblem: the circular walk from the Auronzo refuge takes about three hours and involves no technical difficulty. Seceda, above Ortisei, is reached by cable car and gives the most photographed ridge in the range. The Alpe di Siusi is the largest high plateau in Europe and is crossed by almost level paths suitable for families.
The refuges
The network of mountain huts makes multi-day traverses possible without camping gear. Half board costs fifty to seventy euros, in dormitories or small rooms. They must be booked months ahead for July and August. The Alte Vie, particularly number one from Braies to Belluno, take eight to ten days.
When to go
The walking season runs from mid-June to mid-October: before that snow lingers at altitude and the refuges are shut. September is the best month, with clear air, fewer people and lower prices. In winter the area becomes one of the largest ski regions in the world, with the Dolomiti Superski pass linking twelve valleys.
Safety
Summer storms build almost every afternoon: start early and be back by three. Via ferrata routes require a certified kit and helmet and are not hiking trails. Mountain rescue in Italy is chargeable for non-residents, so travel insurance covering mountain callouts is advisable.
Getting around
A car is convenient, but some passes close to traffic on certain summer days to reduce congestion. Valley buses work well and are often included in the guest cards hotels provide. Trailhead car parks fill by eight in the morning.
Language and culture
In South Tyrol German is the first language of around two thirds of the population and signage is bilingual. In some valleys Ladin, an independent Romance language, is spoken. The mixture shows in the food too: canederli and speck alongside pasta and polenta.
The Dolomites are the part of Italy where you can do high mountain days and still sleep comfortably every night. Few ranges anywhere allow that.
One practical detail on the passes: Sella, Pordoi and Gardena are shared with cyclists and motorcyclists all summer, and several are closed to cars on designated car-free days in July and August. Those days are announced in advance and are, if anything, the best time to be there on foot or by bike.